Friday, April 15, 2011

Should I go permed or natural?

Some people want a certain kind of look and feel for their hair and some people do not know what the difference is, some would say don’t care for the difference between natural or perm, isn't all about what looks good? Now you didn't really think we were going to answer this one.  Did you?  This is one of the hottest debates I've run across in years. There are pros and cons to each one. The difference between natural and chemical relaxed hair is similar to the difference between chemical treated soil and perm-culture compost organic soil. Does having to twig, style and greasing your hair with a cosmetic product on a daily make your hair not natural, the answer is NO. However, anything you do to hair that causes a change in the structure of the hair or changes the protein/peptide bond in the hair then makes it not natural therefore this hair type is hence considered a chemical relaxed hair. For example, pouring chemical bleach on green tea to extract the oil or contents will not produce the same exact formula as it would when you pour hot water on it instead of the chemical solvent. If I pour vodka grain alcohol on green tea- it will extract the chemical content and nutrients from the leaves but the green tea leaves still remains only it has been denatured but this all depends on the extraction method and the chemical strength of the extracting solvents. At this point it is not appropriate to call it green tea because what makes it a tea has been extracted although the leaves remain. The same thing applies to chemical relaxed hair. The content of the hair such as oils, proteins is what is broken and oils stripped from the hair, although the hair is still hair. Its original chemistry and physically structure has been changed. Natural or chemical relaxed hair is a type of hair structure and texture; it has nothing to do with “status ego steam on natural hair “This is highly a personal choice.  Don't go natural to please those sisters who think all women who wear perms are selling out to the white man and have low self esteem.  Don't wear a perm because you feel that going natural is a political statement that you don't want to make.  Some naturals are mistaken and some people will assume certain things about your political and social points of view.  
Remember chemical processing is not best option and the more chemicals applied to hair the more possible damage to hair.

  • Chemical relaxer contain toxic ingredient such as parabens, fragrances etc.
  • Chemically relaxed hair is the norm in many places.
  • Easy to style the hair.
  • Hard on the hair.
  • Require diligent care to keep the hair healthy.
  • The scalp is vasculated so what ever we put on our hair can be absorbed into our bloodstream.
Avoid Toxic Chemical relaxer ingredientsMost relaxer contain the following:
Olive Oil Built-In Protection No-Lye Relaxer Base: Aqua (Water) , Petrolatum , Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil) , Cetearyl Alcohol , Calcium Hydroxide , PEG-75 Lanolin , Propylene Glycol , Ceteareth-20 , Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein , Olea Europaea Fruit Oil (Olive) , Polysorbate-60 , Olive Oil Built-In Protection No-Lye Relaxer Activator: Aqua (Water) , Guanidine Carbonate , Sorbitol , CI 19140 (Yellow #5) , Olive Oil Creamy Aloe Shampoo: Aqua (Water) , Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate , Ammonium Laureth Sulfate , Lauramide DEA , Lauryl Glucoside , Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate , Trideceth-7 Carboxilic Acid , PPG-5 Ceteth-10 Phosphate , Olea Europaea Fruit Oil (Olive) , Cetrimonium Chloride , Polyquaternium-10 , Sulfated Castor Oil , Lecithin , Propylene Glycol , PEG-12 Oleate , Capric , Caprylic Triglycerides , Sodium Laureth Sulfate , Cocamide-MEA , Glycol Distearate , Laureth-10 , Cetyl Triethylmonium Dimethicone PEG-8 Succinate , Coco-Glucoside , Glyceryl Oleate , Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice , Glycerin , Glyceryl Acrylate , Acrylic Acid Copolymer , Propylene Glycol , Polyquaternium-7 , Fragrance (Parfum) , Hexyl Cinnamal , Lilial , DMDM Hydantoin , Methylparaben , Propylene Glycol , Propylparaben , Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate , Disodium EDTA , Triethanolamine , Methylchloroisothiazolinone , Methylisothiazolinone , CI 42053 (Green #3) , CI 19140 (Yellow #5) , Olive Oil Replenishing Pak Conditioner: Aqua (Water) , Glycine Soja Oil (Soybean...
    Because relaxer is a chemical that can be extremely damaging to the hair if used incorrectly; If you must relax your hair it is strongly recommended that it be applied only under the direction of a hair care professional with a record of success with healthy hair care and chemical straightening, and that the client regularly obtains conditioning treatments before and after the process.  You should know all relaxers require conditioning treatments before and after application. Use a hair repairing deep conditioner to condition and moisturize permed hair. The decision to straighten the hair chemically requires much forethought and really a commitment to healthy hair care treatments over a long entire period of time.
    • Natural hair option is the happening deal in America.  
    • Some do it for religious reasons (locks) or political reasons- you may be lumped into this category by strangers
    • Have cost some people jobs- a man was fired for wearing locks (upheld in court).  A woman was fired for wearing two-strand twists. Like the News "TSA gets in people's hair".
    • May require greater self esteem to put up with the looks and comments
    • Better for the hair and healthier for your scalp.
    • Easier to maintain but not so easy to manage for some people with very tight coil hair pattern.
    • Styling option takes experimenting to find.
     You can experiment, try loose braids, Bantu knot, twist and roll, and do a Mohawk. You can wear it out like an Afro or you can braid it flat then wear a wig. Most people wants natural hair but do not like the kinky and coarse look and feel of the hair, most people prefer a comb easy hair which is the main reason most people choose chemical relaxer over their natural hair, this is understandable but it’s not the healthiest option.
    I have cut my hair so many times but when i decided to transition from relaxed/permed hair to natural this is how i began- Because my hair was so damaged by wrong application and dryness caused by the relaxer I decided to cut it and grow out my hair, I knew it will grow back so I cut it although I didn't like it short- it took three experiences of using the wrong stuff on my hair to see damage.
    First, I applied the relaxer like a cream before reading the box and left it on my hair past time because it wasn't stinging yet; guess what it was a bad choice because I got a painful burnt scalp. The hair on the part that burnt felt like melted plastic and smelt kind like a burning natural wig- this happened because I didn't follow instruction, did not do a thorough research before use and forgot or didn't care to have a hair consultant do a real strand test to help find out which products will be less harsh to my hair and scalp.

    Then the second time, I decide to transition without cutting off the damaged hair; my hair grew but I still had the relaxed end, looked like old grass and new grass hanging off my hair, I didn't like it so I would wear wigs to let it grow out some more, then braid it flat while growing out my hair, then later i can cut off the damaged ends (the perm ends). Then when it grew out, I didn't know what to do with my hair as far as styling so I bought a flat iron and hot comb to straighten it and style it but it was drying out my hair so I had to put in more conditioning moisturizer and deep condition but I probably didn't do it right either but the heat caused damage to the hair. Then I washed it in vinegar water but I put too much vinegar and didn't rinse it well plus the heat- didn't like it. Then I saw a lady that had the kind of hair softness and curl I could have, so I asked her what she used on her since she had an ethnic Afro that looked good, she gave me the name of a relaxer which I tried but guess what my hair got damaged to the point had to cut it again; this happened either as a result of wrong application and misuse or wrong chemical relaxer. The ingredients in the relaxer was already harsh enough for a healthy hair so imagine the damage it can cause to damaged and split hair.

    Then after I was advised by a beautician to cut off of my hair because it was damaged, since then I haven't used a relaxer on my hair but I still desire for an easy to style and manage hair texture however, my ideal choice of hair is natural defined soft curl not always straight. Finding a product that can define my natural curl without straightening it has been a hassle so what I do is wear out my Afro in comfortable styles or I would condition my hair and braid my natural hair flat so that I can wear a wig properly- it's nice and convenient but sometimes when it gets hot I would let my hair breath by taking off the wig whenever comfortable (avoid wearing hair in braids for too long it can tangle your hair, break and cause damage to your hair strand). You can also have a sew-in so that your hair is braided underneath the wig- this is a much more convenient way if you are on the go all the time than wearing a wig because you don't have to worry about taking it off when going to sleep. You can do this till your hair grows out to the length you desire then you can wear it long if you don't like wearing short hair or been bald. You can soften it using this product Natural Hair Relaxer by Baka Beauty, it will make it soft and manageable so you can wear it out in a style you like.
    You can create your own hair style, whether natural or permed/relaxed that looks good.
    You can use a deep conditioner free of harsh chemicals to soften and moisturize the hair because ethnic hair is very thirsty for moisture, so keep some hair moisturizing spritz or some deep conditioner and water at hand. Avoid hot combs and flat iron, if you must use protective gels/oil. Remember too much of anything is not always the best, too much oil may cause split in hair. Natural hair looks good if well conditioned.

    natural hair style guides

    A texturizer is a mild relaxer that loosens the natural curl pattern of the hair and produces easier manageability.
    What's makes a texturizer different from a relaxer? Well texturizer (or mild relaxer) is left on the hair for a very short time. It is not combed throughout the hair to prevent the hair from becoming straight. A texturizer treatment product comes in lye and no-lye formulas. For best results, use on naturally unprocessed curly hair. Once you get it done, you will be able to see what changes you’d like to make on different areas of your hair. Your stylist should be able to assist you. Texturizer gives your hair a sleeker look.
    Many women who have very tightly curled hair have begun to look for ways to loosen their curls to give them better manageability and versatility. Although tight curls are very versatile, many women feel the need to opt for a change. You know the saying: "you always want what you don't have". Most people are never satisfied, which is alright. Just make the changes necessary for you to feel happy. Whether you are bored with your hair color and want to add a splash of color or you want to curl or straighten your hair or want to stay natural, the choice is up to you.
    The same goes for hair texturizers. Some feel it's not natural because it's chemically altering the hairs natural state. However, it's up to the individual to make that decision. Whether you want better manageability or to add more glamour, the choice is yours. You have to manage your hair and you have to be happy with your hair and do what feels best for you.
    Today many women with curls - whether tight or medium curls, are looking for different styling options for their hair. Many women who have chemically straightened their hair in the past have decided that they wanted to go back to their curls. Many have never seen their natural curls since childhood and never knew what to expect. Once they stopped chemically straightening their hair and their natural curls grew in, now they need to spend months or years getting to know their natural curls – how to manage them, and what products worked best on their hair type and texture.
    Many people choose to texturize their hair for better manageability, less shrinkage, reduce frizz, maintain curl pattern with looser curls that grows vertically, and also because you don’t have to texturize your hair every 6-8 weeks like you do a bone straight relaxer. With a texturizer it's hard to notice where your naturally curly hair ends and the texturized hair begins. Since your hair is growing curly you don't see the "line of demarcation" like you do with a relaxer.
    If you want to maintain your hair texture and curl pattern but want to slightly loosen the curl it’s best to add a texturizer for a very short time without combing the hair out.
    To check if your texturizer workd for you or not, shampoo and condition your hair. Look at the curl pattern of your hair when it's wet, while the hair is wet, if you see a looser curl pattern and it's softer when you comb it then your texturizing process was a success.
    If you're still thinking about a texturizer think about your lifestyle and your patience for hair. If you want ease in styling, a texturizer may be for you or if you still want to keep your original hair texture, try a nontoxic alternative called Chemical free relaxer called Curlaway by Xenna gently relaxes curl without breakage and contains no harsh chemicals. Safely relaxes all hair types. Refreshes perms. Permits highlights.
    Curlaway Curl Relaxer is a gentle, patented gel free of harsh or alkaline chemicals. It's natural ingredients gradually and safely release curl, leaving your hair silky soft and easy to style. The results are gradual and Curlaway Gel is safe to use over previously-relaxed or color-treated hair. The more you use Curlaway Gel the straighter your hair becomes. Want your curls back? No problem. Just stop using Curlaway and in about 4 to 6 weeks you have them again! Any style you like and be it s-shaped curls, ringlets, big bouncy waves or all the way to straight, you will love your Curlaway hair!
    But don't forget to do your research... Take your time... And Good Luck! Remember, do what you want. It's your hair and nobody else’s. 
     T
    Natural or Not the decision is yours, natural is healthiest choice if non-damaging or toxic free chemical or natural products are used- with natural hair you don't have to worry about chemical relaxers but you will need to avoid using toxic ingredients that can cause damage to your hair and scalp.

    Other Hair Tips that may be useful to you:
    when getting braids ask that the hair equipments used on your hair are properly sanitized. Also it is not healthy to braid your hair always- ask that your hair isn't braided too tight- to prevent scalp injury/pain and hair breakage at the edges.If your hairstylist seems reluctant about your request look for a better hairstylist who truly cares about the health and look of your hair.

    Iron or metal ponytails can scar/injure the scalp if it is not properly place in your hair.
     Hair growth is a process that requires healthy regimen, if you choose to be natural or nontoxic you have to learn to be satisfied with yourself--your beauty the way you want it whether natural or relaxed so longs as you try your very best to avoid as much toxins as you possibly can. Reevaluate your reasons for choosing a natural hair over relaxed hair--your way of doing things---create your own lifestyle outside of the bandwagon. However, nontoxic Hair is healthiest choice and best approach--natural or not

    Note: when getting braids ask that the hair equipments used on your hair are properly sanitized. Also it is not healthy to braid your hair always- ask that your hair isn't braided too tight- to prevent scalp injury/pain and hair breakage at the edges.If your hairstylist seems reluctant about your request look for a better hairstylist who truly cares about the health and look of your hair.

    Iron or metal ponytails can scar/injure the scalp if it is not properly placed in your hair.

    Hint: If you have very kinky African hair, what you can do to make it more manageable without relaxing it so much, is use curlaway on it to rejuvenate and loosen curl pattern, it will soften your curls and make the hair more manageable. Let it grow out for at least 2month before applying another one, this allows you to put less chemicals on your hair because it is a plant-based formula and you reduce the amount of damage caused by toxic harsh chemicals to your scalp and hair. To get moisture into your hair, use coconut milk or oil, castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, glycerin with your daily moisturizer or just plain. If the hair stress is making you lose your mind, your job---by all means do what's best for you.

    If you are tired of been natural and thinking about relaxing your hair or If you adamant and dedicated to keep your Afro curlaway may be the safest bet for you---see this video below before you use any relaxer on your hair.....Motivational help for you.



    If you find yourself frustrated over your dry kinky coarse hair Get Your Organic Hair conditioner.  Although eco-styler helps to loosen up hair curl pattern, avoid using Eco-styler i find that it cause dryness to kinky hair, plus leaves white residue on hair and when dry this turn it crumbs if you used much of it on your hair. On top of this, Eco-styler gel is toxic--because it contains harmful chemicals like triethanolamine, carbomer, fragrance etc that can be damaging to your health and to the hair depending on your hair type.

    My two favorite Henna are:
    Godrej Nupur Mehendi Powder 9 Herbs Blend, 150-gram by Godrej
     Find out why they are toxic here. 
    Toxic free alternative for hair care:  
    Natural Hair Relaxer by baka beauty at Amazon

     Castor oil + lemon juice + coconut milk + aloe Vera gel or juice+ horsetail tea water + rosemary extract + rose water = Healthy moisturized and shiny hair. You can find these ingredient at iherb

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    Onyinye A

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